Bear Claws it is!

I was dreading the job of possibly replacing the OEM door latches with aftermarket bear claw latches, but I had to do something since NOS or good used parts are so rare and expensive. I didn’t think I could satisfactorily rebuild the stock parts myself, and if I was able to find someone to rebuild them I suspected the price would be astronomical, so economics was a compelling consideration.


The stock latches in both cars were in terrible shape. The star wheels were badly worn and after cleaning and lubricating only one latch functioned at all. The rest worked intermittently, and one jammed to the point of having to occasionally pry it open. I finally decided to try the modern latches, and to first use the parts car door to experiment. If the idea proved impractical, at least I wouldn’t damage any project car parts in the process.


Since the passenger door skin on the parts car had already been cut open to access the jammed stock latch, I decided that it would be a good place to start.


After removing all the unused original parts from the door and jamb, I marked where the door had to be cut and drilled to install the latch. Instead of using a Dremel tool to make precise cuts, I relied on my trusty DeWalt saw and a couple of hand files to make an acceptable opening…acceptable, not neat! The temperature was 96F, so there was no time to waste making the beat-up old door look nice!  Minutes later the latch was in place.

Then I held the door closed, and through the hole in the skin, I marked the latch pin location on the jamb. In another five minutes I had drilled a hole and temporarily installed the pin, using a thick washer as a temporary shim on one side.  All in all, it took about forty-five minutes to strip parts off the old door and install the new latch.

The door now opens and closes better than it ever did, even when new! I located the new latch lower for two reasons. First, when centered it pulls the door closed more evenly. Second, there is no way to hide the latch claws where they would not be visible from inside the car. When they are mounted lower, they will be less obvious from the front seats and from outside the car.

My wife was released by her surgeon to resume light activities, so my caretaker duties are not quite so time consuming. Hopefully I can spend more time on the Plymouth.


I received the grease seals to replace the splitting and crumbling Chinese crap. As is the usual case in our modern shopping methods, the price for eight seals was less than nine dollars, and the shipping cost was nearly eleven dollars! The small bag of parts could have been shipped in an envelope, but they chose a box that could have contained a few hundred seals!

Wheel Aligment

One of the next jobs on my agenda was learning how to align the front wheels with my newly purchased manual alignment tool. I knew I couldn’t make accurate settings until more car weight was on the wheels, but I wanted to practice the process and see if I could get the alignment close to correct.

Like so many new tools, the digital world has taken over, so it was like going back to school again. The tool includes a precise position indicator that you place in a magnetic holder in various ways to check caster, camber and toe-in. Unfortunately, the manufacturer did not include a printed manual and only links to videos on their website. The videos were more promotional than informative, but they got me started. Then I searched the Net for manuals I could read while I had hands on the settings. I finally got most of the info I needed from the Summit website, so I printed them out and sat down by the front wheels to set up the tool.

I had originally assembled the suspension parts mostly by guess, and I could immediately see the toe-in was off. The tool verified my eye-balling estimate, and it took only seconds to adjust it to factory specs. When I attempt the final alignment, I'll be seeking opinions about recommended changes to settings based on modern tires, shocks, etc.

Then I worked on the camber. It was surprisingly close to perfect, but I needed to check the caster before I could be certain. I found it too far off, and on the ’56 suspension the camber is dependent on the way the upper control arm bushing pin is assembled when rebuilt. To get it within specs, I had to remove the pin and rotate the bushing one thread to get to the needed negative caster, and that’s when I encountered my first problem.

When I assembled the suspension about five years ago, I quickly discovered the poor quality of the Chinese-made rebuild kit from Kanter, and I wrote about some of the issues. One discovery was the poor quality  of the grease seals, but I used them since they were all I had. Naturally, as I was removing them yesterday, one crumbled and fell off. Then when I removed the one from the other side, I found it cracked and brittle, so I'm now looking for better replacements.

I made the rounds of local auto parts stores, and no one had the right size seal, so I’ll have to search Internet sources. That means another delay, and if I can’t hold them in my hand before I buy, I might be getting the same crap I got with the rebuild kit. With all the cursing I’ve done about Chinese-made parts for this project, I’m probably already on somebody’s hit list in Beijing!

Just before I posted, I found a source that makes seals that are close to the originals, but won't know if they are better until they arrive.

While I'm waiting for parts, I'm going to work on door latches. The originals are badly worn, and I have a set of new, hot rod bear claw latches that I'm going to consider using if there is enough room in the doors without major cutting and welding.

Brake Cable Routing

I found a few minutes to finish routing the emergency brake cables and take a few pictures.

Cables are functioning with the foot operated mechanism from my old '79 Aspen parts car, but will have to be adjusted when I can find someone to help. I also want to add a couple more guides  to keep the cable tucked in close to the frame near the front.

More Demands on my Time

Nothing important happening to the Plymouth, and husbandly duties will now take priority. My wife underwent major surgery Monday and will be in the hospital for several more days, so dealing with that has limited my automotive play time. She's on the mend, but will need my assistance for at least a month when she gets home. Old age is hell until you consider the alternative.


In the meantime, I’m trying to decide what type of air cleaner I should use with the Edelbrock 4-bbl carb. I’d like to have one that looks at least somewhat stock, but the height of the intake means that the hood clearance is not generous, so and the tall ’55-’56 cleaners won’t work.  I suppose I could do it the easy way and get a cheap aftermarket chrome version with a low-rise filter element, but I think I’d rather have something a little less flashy.


A related question is crankcase venting with the cast aluminum Chrysler Power valve covers. Over the years, I’ve had engines with a single downdraft tube, or a PCV valve on one bank only, or with a PCV on one side and an oil-fill cap vented to the air cleaner on the opposite cover. All of them worked fine as far as I could tell, and as long as the engine was healthy, there were no sludge issues.

I never had a state inspection failure since they were all pre-sniffer era. This time I will essentially be creating a new car that will have to be inspected for roadworthiness by a DMV inspector before it can be licensed. It came without a title from a state where it was apparently last licensed in the early seventies. I was informed that Texas does a visual inspection only on ’73 and newer cars, so the ’66 Drivetrain in the ’56 body should fall into that class.

After reading dozens of posts on other sites, there doesn’t seem to be consensus on a functionally “best” venting system, and since I’ve never given it much serious thought before, I’m interested in personal opinions as well as links to legitimatel technical information.