Plodding Along

I'm still working on the passenger side floors, but the end is in sight! Since none of the old floor could be salvaged, it took longer to measure, cut and form every piece. Nearly all the pieces are screwed in place for a test fit and I should begin welding tomorrow...unless I get too interested in the Dover race.

I sent off my complaint about the bad floor panel to Black Car, and just as I expected, all they can offer is sympathy, a load of BS about possible multiple used-on models, and a 10% discount on my next order. I'm overwhelmed by their lack of concern for their customer...

If you are tempted to use the Internet to search for car parts on partsrequest.com, save your time and money. They offer to submit your part needs to dozens of salvage yards for about $4, and if you get no responses within 72 hours they will return your money. I requested a set of Chrysler Sebring convertible seats in the Texas area, and got two generic responses from yards 1000 miles away. The responses didn't even mention seats. I'm sure they conspire with partsrequest.com to make sure the fee doesn't have to be returned.

I had hoped to locate a set of seats soon so I can install mounting brackets before I seal and prime the floors, but since I still have to spend a day or two welding everything underneath, I still have time.

The last section of interior sheet metal that needs repair is the area behind the back seat.

I think I can salvage enough of the original to eliminate having to hand form any exotic curves or corners, so that part should go rather fast. I had thought about using fiberglass for the few rust through places, but since I have enough metal I might as well make it match the rest of the patches. Besides, I hate the smell of curing fiberglass.

With any luck, by this time next week I should have a start on exterior patch panels,

Passenger Side Floors

I should learn to bite my tongue before predicting how much repair will be needed in an area I haven't carefully inspected.

While the chassis mount in the back seat area on the passenger side is in better shape than its counterpart on the opposite side, everything else in the floor and rocker area is total junk. I've spent the better part of two days with cutters, saws and air chisel removing rusted parts, and I'm still not done with tear down.

 

I also discovered the passenger side rear floor pan I purchased from Black Car is too wide. If you never noticed, be aware that the drive shaft hump is offset to the right a couple of inches, which means the floor pans are not the same width. The pans I bought are mirror images, so the one I'm installing next will have to be cut off and re-bent. I don't know if it was a mistake caused by the fabricator being unaware there were two patterns required, or if the manufacturer simply deciding to make two of the larger size and let the customer take care of it, but for me it's yet another time consuming pain in the rear, and Black Car is going to receive a do-better letter from one unhappy customer.

 

Mid-course Observations

When I bought the car, as is typical when dreams overrule common sense and caution, I overlooked or minimized much of the hidden structural work that had to be accomplished before I could begin working on the exterior. Only after removing floors and rocker panels did the massive task become obvious. Had I known what I faced, I might have reconsidered the wisdom of undertaking such a project.

If I had a rotisserie and a larger shop full of metal working tools, the job wouldn't be quite as intimidating...or difficult, but it's far too late to change my mind or to shirk from the remaining challenges. If decent patch panels were available, the job would also be much easier. Actually, with each little success I find myself more confident to take on the next part of the project. At least I'll be able to derisively sneer at the Chevy guys who brag about doing their own restoration with the help of a dozen catalogs.

Speaking of tools, I can't imagine trying to accomplish a restoration or any sheet metal repair without a sheet metal brake. On the other hand, I discovered that the cheap bead roller I bought is mostly useless...certainly not worth what I paid for it. Since structural parts on old American cars are mostly made of 18 gauge steel, and the bead roller is designed for nothing heavier than 20 gauge, there isn't much use for it on my job. Maybe if someone is into Toyotas with their flimsy metal....

My Hobart MIG welder has been the star of the restoration. My welding skills are still nothing to brag about, but when I pay attention to what I'm doing, the results are very satisfactory. However,  if I begin to daydream when I should be thinking, the angle grinder gets a workout, so I'm fortunate that it too works like a champ.

The amount of metal I've had to replace amazes me. I was first hesitant to buy a full 4' X 8' sheet of 18 gauge, since I already had a half-sheet, but I will actually need almost another full sheet to finish the job. I ordered a half sheet of 20 gauge from a source on the Internet, and shipping was nearly the same price as the material. Shipping cost for a full sheet would have been three times the price of the material! The heavier product is available only a few miles up the road, but their wholesaler offers nothing lighter than 18, so I was forced to order online.

On the good news side, I lucked into a NOS set of Mopar stainless steel rocker trim moldings for a Desoto of similar vintage...and they cost less than I had expected to pay for used parts. Plymouth did not offer that trim in '56, but I wanted it to help visually lower and lengthen the profile. They are about 2" too long, but it should be simple to cut and reform the ends. Since they are from the Chrysler family, the rocker profile is nearly perfect!

Driver's Side Floors In Place

While the sheet metal details may not duplicate the original pattern, their replacements have been fitted and tacked/screwed in place. One  benefit of having to replace the seat mount area, I was able to dimension it to fit late model Sebring buckets, and to reinforce the entire floor area to better support the seat in the event of an accident. The Sebring buckets have integrated shoulder belts, so the inertia of a crash places the entire weight of the seat and occupant on the floor sheet metal.

I'm now ready to move over to the other side and figure out how much needs to be replaced there.

The rear seat chassis mount area is in decent shape and only needs a tiny patch, versus a complete replacement on the driver's side, but metal behind the seat back support bracket will have to be replaced...win some, lose some.

The bottom support for the middle chassis mount is in much worse shape than the other side, so I might have to build a replacement, or at least do major repairs to the existing part.

Though there is severe rust damage, the front floor should be easier than the driver's side, mainly because I finally figured out how to properly mate it to the rocker panels, and because there is no access panel on this side that has to be match-fitted to the old frame and the ill-fitting patch panel.

I've also figured out what modifications must be done to the outer rocker panel. The only ones available from the aftermarket are designed to be a cap that fits over the old panel, but I modified them to offer structural support the full length of the passenger area, just as the originals are designed to do. There are slight dimensional differences from the OEM, but it shouldn't be noticeable when they fit that low on the car, especially since they will be mostly covered by stainless steel trim. Ill try to remember to take pictures of the passenger side inner and outer rocker panels before they are mounted.