Power Window Installation-Part 1

 The power window kit is installed, wires routed and clamped, circuit powered and switches tested. So far so good!

As mentioned in a previous post, the kit instructions were far more applicable for a '34 Ford coupe than a '56 Plymouth hardtop. That said, I'm certain there are probably more thirty-something hot rods on the road than Forward Look Plymouths, so I'll not complain about the lack of Mopar information. Instead, I will share my experience with my '56 Belvedere 2-door hardtop, and the changes I made to make it a better fit for my situation. Fortunately, Chrysler tends to make most of the brands from the same years similar in design and function, so even if your car is a Chrysler or a DeSoto, you might gain a little info from my project.

The Specialty Power Window kit I installed received high marks from several folks who used it on hot rod projects, and although I found no Mopar projects among the users the function had to be the same, and only the fit required a few changes. This is the only sketch in their installation guide that shows all the components in context. My photo shows all the parts as they come in the kit.

               

Their instructions are fairly clear in the early steps as they tell how to establish the proper length and cut the tracks to fit your application.

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Their instructions are less helpful when it comes time to modify the window and attach it to the lift bracket. The Plymouth hardtop lower window frame must be replaced by the kit-supplied channel and since the entire frame is squared and secured by the lower frame, I had to design a substitute method. 

Fortunately I had a piece of 3/8" aluminum channel that fit perfectly inside the rear frame, so I was able to use a simple angle to attach the kit channel to mine with 10-32 screws and nuts. FWIW, I did not use their fabric channel tape since my windows had new tape installed when the glass was replaced.

The method I used is less rigid than the stock Chrysler design, but the way the power window frames move the glass is less stressful than the manual cranks, especially with the light use it will receive. If you intend heavy usage for your windows, I'd suggest the stock parts be modified and welded for more rigidity.

Installing the upper and lower track mounts required cutting sheet metal. The locations don't have to be precise, so I cut the holes where there would be no interference with things to be mounted at a later time. Since I have modified armrest, door handle and window crank locations, your track mounts could be in a different location. Notice the cable from my door handle to the latch and the frame for the armrest and custom inside door handle. There is quite a bit of adjustability built into the kit design, so you have some leeway in where you locate the mounts. After determining the depth of the mounting brackets, I bent them as required and pop-riveted them to the door sheet metal for the top, and to a panel I designed for the bottom. 

I apologize for the formatting, but my layout and the published picture spacing does not agree. I hope I can fix that problem before I post the second part.