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Monday, March 21, 2022

First Day of Spring Progress Report

 

I always knew the wiring would be a problem, but I grossly underestimated just how much of a problem it would be.

For those who may not have read or recall all the crazy ideas I proposed on this blog, it was my plan to integrate circuitry from several different years and models of Mopar vehicles, plus new circuits for additional aftermarket equipment. With that in mind, here is a quick summary of the goals.

I wanted to keep the interior looking mostly stock, or at least similar to period correct, so all the switches and controls were seventy-year-old originals, except for the HVAC controls which are modern switches with OEM knobs and custom mounting.

The gauges are aftermarket but resemble the originals in appearance. However, the gauge internals and sending units are the latest modern designs.

The steering column with ignition switch is from a late seventies Dodge pickup.

 The 318 engine and transmission came from a ’66 Plymouth. The electronic ignition and updated charging systems are based on several model year Chryslers and Mopar Performance parts.

Headlight wiring is modified with upgraded wiring with relay operated switching for improved headlight performance.

Engine cooling is via a SPAL electric dual fan system with Painless controls.

HVAC system is from Vintage Air.

Aftermarket electrical additions are power front windows, backup camera, power bucket seats from a 2001 Chrysler convertible and a Radio/GPS from Kenwood.

I moved the battery to the trunk and added two fuse and relay panels to accommodate all the new equipment and to split loads on a couple of the original ’56 Plymouth circuits.

Trying to integrate all those wiring additions and changes, has been challenging for my untrained and aged mind, so that’s what been keeping me occupied all this time I haven’t been posting.  

My biggest frustration has been discovering the numerous wiring errors I made. Having spent most of my life packaging and wiring commercial aircraft and military electronics packages, I’m ashamed to find more than a half-dozen dumb mistakes! So far, besides the mis-wires, I found two wires I hadn't installed, plus a couple of bad connections and a defective wire segment.

The best surprise is that so far I’ve not found any mistakes in my circuit layouts…but I’m sure that will happen before I’m done! The second-best thing is that doing all this work alone means I’m getting my physical exercise climbing in and out, up, down, and around and under that damn car all day. I haven’t been on the treadmill once but I'm still exhausted by day's end.

Sorry, no pictures to show, since I don’t want anyone to see the mess I made having to untie and open my nicely routed wire bundles for troubleshooting.

Here’s my progress so far:

I have headlights, but only dims. No wiring reason fond for not having hi-beams. Everything is good all the way to the terminal board on the radiator support, so I’ll have to open up the front bundle to find the problem. Since I also don’t have front park lights or turn signals, the problems might be related.

I have taillights and both the turn signal switch and indicator work, but without the park lights it won’t blink.

Gauge lights work, except for the speedometer. Since all the gauges are jumpered together it probably means a bad light or connection in the speedometer. I tested the assembled dash before I installed it and it worked fine on the bench. That problem might be a real pain to fix as there is so little room behind the dash. I hope I won’t have to remove the dash.

Yet to be static tested are the HVAC controls, tach, radio, interior lights, power windows and all the things that will have to be functionally tested once the car is running. At the rate I’m going, that may be never!

1 comment:

  1. I FEEL YOUR PAIN ! In many ways. My plan was to trick the Dakota computer into thinking it was still a Dakota by leaving every wire connected to the engine and stacking every attached peripheral onto the engine and then reattach them to the '56 body and to get it all running before you. It didn't work.
    This is my first project that uses a computer control and what a learning curve. I had run new fuel lines and used the Dakota fuel injection (in tank) pump in a jeep tank. So two weeks ago it was time to test the installed pump, it did not work, read up on it for days, turns out the Dakota has a one second only run with the ignition switch in the run/ignition and shuts down the fuel pump and ignition (ASD relay) unless the starter is engaged/engine cranking. Who would have come up with that, makes a one person diagnosis very difficult? So two weeks latter it is still not starting, going to prime it with gas tomorrow and with luck it will blow up.

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