One milestone reached and now I have to wait again.
As of yesterday, most lights are functioning. I have high
and low beams, park lights, taillights, license plate light, turn signals,
hazard flashers and dash lights…except for the speedometer. The turn signal and
hazard indicators display inside the speedometer, but the backlighting does not
function. I don’t recall testing the backlighting on the speedometer when I
installed the gauges, but if I did, something killed it since then.
The power windows are also operating, but the passenger side
is sticking at the low end of travel. It tested fine after installation, so that
was a surprise. I have to remove the door panel to troubleshoot the latch, so I'll have one more thing to adjust or repair.
I had previously expressed satisfaction with my rewire
engineering, but any joy about my wiring skills was quickly suppressed when I
ran across a couple of really stupid wiring mistakes.
One big mistake was trying to integrate parts and functions
from old and newer vehicles while at the same time adding a bunch of modern aftermarket equipment. The biggest problem was using the OEM lights and light
switches and the ignition switch from a “late 70s” Dodge truck. I made the
mistake of assuming that just because the wire bundle from my steering column
switch matched the colors from the ’73 truck schematic that I used when laying out my
master wiring diagram. I wasted many hours over that dumb mistake.
After chasing weird lighting problems for far too long, I resorted to simple logic to hook up the taillight power and turn signal wires. Once again, the problem was my fault for trusting color codes from different vehicles. That wasted effort ate up the better part of two days, but at least the basic wiring now seems to be functioning properly.
Problems still to be tracked down are the non-functioning
backup lights and interior courtesy lights. Since the backup lights worked fine
when I direct wired them to a power supply, my guess is the problem with both might reside in ancient light hardware. I installed new LED bulbs in the courtesy lights, so that
might have something to do with them not operating.
A couple of defective parts really ticked me off. Two new 20amp fuses had internal opens and no indication of being blown. Since I had
purchased a new box of fuses, I didn’t bother to check the country of origin
before throwing out the box, but there is no doubt in my mind that it was
China.
After getting the dash lights and switches working, I pulled
the speedometer and returned it to the manufacturer for repair. I have no idea
how long that will take, but they responded to my questions quickly so I am hopeful It was
beyond the five-year warranty, so my procrastination will cost me again!
With no pictures to document my time-consuming electrical
work, I had planned on making a video of the lights operating, but I pulled the
speedometer before I remembered. At least when the repaired part returns I
can reassemble the dash, and hopefully the console with the tach, HVAC controls
and shifter mounted. That wiring still needs testing.
I did take a few minutes to reproduce the stock inner fender braces for my friend's mostly original '56 Fury. Bending sheet metal is not his forte and since I have a few metal working tools, I give him a hand when I can.
Like many other things, the design of those braces was apparently different between Chrysler factories. The ones on my Belvedere were totally different than those on my Fury parts car. I designed the ones on my Belvedere, but my friend likes to keep things as close to OEM as possible.
The interior LED's bulbs are of course polarity sensitive. A low voltage battery will cause weird LED reactions. Imported aftermarket lamp assemblies use black-hot white-ground, backwards.
ReplyDeleteI had a few minutes yesterday to work on these remaining wiring issues. I swapped the LED bulbs for the stock variety and still no lights. I traced the wires from the power source thru the firewall and there was power at that point, but none at the light switch, so the problem is in the last segment of wire where i travels through the A-pillar. I have to pull some trim to check, so this problem will have to sit while other things have priority.
DeleteThe backup light failure is intermittent operation of the old switch on the console shifter. The switch has a small crack and a loose terminal. No problem, right? Wrong! there are no reproductions, but quite a few NOS parts being advertised. Would you believe the cheapest NOS I found was $188.00? E-bay had one used part for $75, but that too is ridiculous for a small slider switch with a small mounting bracket and a two-wire connector. There were further insults as one guy thought his NOS part was worth $500.00!
For as often as I would need backup lights, If I can't repair my switch, I'll replace it with a $6.50 spring-loaded toggle switch.
Yes, prices (especially Mopar) are nuts, I always have trouble getting my head around the fact that dome / interior lights are switched on the ground side, so I confused that even more by using relays! Thank you for posting.
ReplyDelete